I coming up with no specific code preventing you from adding two elbows to make a sort of U-joint terminal to your vent, but if this is to address a leak, I'd be skeptical this would take care of it. The vent pipe is always wet inside and receives water vapor from the drainage system constantly and you want to get rid of the condensation it forms right away. If you're familiar with the parts of a tee fitting, consider terminating the vent into the bull of a tee. Tees are made of a the "Run" which are the two openings you can look through, and the "Bull" is the center opening. To experiment with this, I'd think it would be a better idea to insert the vertical vent end into the bull and let the two open run connections get rid of the vapor without letting much additional rain in.
thank you. That is an excellent suggestion. I will do exactly that.
Another consideration is that it might be the flashing not the vent that is leaking
Vent pipes not properly glued at the joints. They figure it’s not under pressure and whatever rain drops into the pipe won’t leak. Now you have to go on the roof and put a tee because some people don’t do their work properly. Sucks.
Vent pipes not properly glued at the joints. They figure it’s not under pressure and whatever rain drops into the pipe won’t leak. Now you have to go on the roof and put a tee because some people don’t do their work properly. Sucks.
overall I was pretty happy. I think it's probably one joint. The irony is that this was a big renovation that I did entirely myself except for the drain waste and vent lines and the countertops. And those lines are the issue.
overall I was pretty happy. I think it's probably one joint. The irony is that this was a big renovation that I did entirely myself except for the drain waste and vent lines and the countertops. And those lines are the issue.
exactly! they skimp on glueing the pipe joints. Do it yourself and you know it is done. I CV learned that a long time ago.
I think I heard acorns drop into my bathroom vent pipe a few times this fall (it's directly under gigantic oak tree). Then my tub had draining issues (still not great). My hubby thinks it's improbable, but will humor me with a cover on the vent next fall if it makes sense.
I think I heard acorns drop into my bathroom vent pipe a few times this fall (it's directly under gigantic oak tree). Then my tub had draining issues (still not great). My hubby thinks it's improbable, but will humor me with a cover on the vent next fall if it makes sense.
I've been hearing water in my heating pipes when it's running so I guess it's time for a bleeding. Starting at top of house and working down towards the bottom is the correct sequence for this?
I've been hearing water in my heating pipes when it's running so I guess it's time for a bleeding. Starting at top of house and working down towards the bottom is the correct sequence for this?
It's a hot water system? My experience is there's no set method to bleeding air. Get the bulk of it out wherever you can, then run the system and deliver more air to the automatic air eliminator (you should have a functioning automatic air eliminator). If your system keeps collecting air then have your expansion tank checked or replaced.
It's a hot water system? My experience is there's no set method to bleeding air. Get the bulk of it out wherever you can, then run the system and deliver more air to the automatic air eliminator (you should have a functioning automatic air eliminator). If your system keeps collecting air then have your expansion tank checked or replaced.
How would I know if I have an automatic air eliminator? Judging by the need to bleed the system, if I do have one, it's likely not working properly correct.
Just did a complete bathroom renovation. All new plumbing with Rohl faucets. And now the water temperature is limited to 120 degrees. I guess that's the new standard, but I hate it. Is there a "cheat" to disengage the upper limit temperature doodad?
Just did a complete bathroom renovation. All new plumbing with Rohl faucets. And now the water temperature is limited to 120 degrees. I guess that's the new standard, but I hate it. Is there a "cheat" to disengage the upper limit temperature doodad?
In the shower, yes. The basin faucet is less likely to have a limiter but lately there are little pieces set under the handle that disallow the user to turn it all the way to the hot side. If you just did a complete reno, I'd think you can ask your plumber to remove or reset the limiter to allow for hotter water.
How would I know if I have an automatic air eliminator? Judging by the need to bleed the system, if I do have one, it's likely not working properly correct.
Post a picture or two of the boiler and immediate surrounding piping.
My bathroom was partially updated. We replaced the vanity/sink faucet, and the shower walls/handle/enclosure. (Nothing else was changed: we kept the same toilet, shower pan, flooring, and tiled walls outside the shower).
The sink water is fine. It uses the house's original plumbing with new hoses to the sink faucet.
The shower water smells bad. It gives off a strong odor of plastic. I even continue to taste plastic on my tongue after I leave the bathroom (I'm very sensitive to VOCs). The bit of shower plumbing right around the new shower handle (input and output) were updated with Pex. I've googled this and read that others have experienced plastic taste/odor from Pex, and the leeching may vary by the amount of chlorine or other chemicals in the water.
How long does this Pex leeching/odor tend to take to go away in our area? (Maplewood water). The shower has been used several times, and the odor is still there. Today I put a carbon filter on the shower head, which seemed to reduce the plastic odor very slightly... but it's definitely still there.
Have a 1980s-ish boiler (oil). In years past, we would flush the water periodically and water would easily flow out, getting rid of some of the rust water. This year, when flushing the boiler, water trickles out. Not really a flow anymore. Should we be concerned? Thanks in advance for your response.
Have a 1980s-ish boiler (oil). In years past, we would flush the water periodically and water would easily flow out, getting rid of some of the rust water. This year, when flushing the boiler, water trickles out. Not really a flow anymore. Should we be concerned? Thanks in advance for your response.
Well, you've got a 43-ish year old boiler. It's not a good sign that drain ports are starting to close up. Can you post a picture and show me where you're draining the water from? Maybe there's an easy way to clear it out.
I had a similar problem this fall with my steam/radiator 1980-ish boiler system that would only drain very rusty-looking water at a drip. I have a worry-free program from PSEG. They came by and changed out the water drain device. It works fine now. I was very happy to have checked the heating system back in September for proper working order.
By the way, last night the water in the boiler got very low twice and I refilled it. In normal winter weather (the 30s and 20s) I just need to refill a small amount about every three days. During the extreme cold last night, some of the radiators visibly dripped some steam as the boiler ran almost constantly. I still add water manually, but perhaps an automatic refiller would be a good plan. I got new windows a few years ago, and they are a big help in preventing heat loss.
The nipple into the boiler is probably what's partially clogged bay now. You can try to do what Jaytee said but if that doesn't help you'll hav veto go to next-level service procedures and disassemble the sight glass.
After bleeding some water and air at basement valve I no longer hear any gurgling in the radiators but pressure seems lower. I should have verified prior to doing anything
After bleeding some water and air at basement valve I no longer hear any gurgling in the radiators but pressure seems lower. I should have verified prior to doing anything
did you put water into the system while bleeding the valve? Open the water to the system then bleed the valve with the water fill valve open. That’s gonna bring your pressure back up. Hope it helps.
After bleeding some water and air at basement valve I no longer hear any gurgling in the radiators but pressure seems lower. I should have verified prior to doing anything
You're already showing enough pressure for a 4-5 story building. Leave it alone. Or you can do what the other guy said and risk bursting your expansion tank.
You're already showing enough pressure for a 4-5 story building. Leave it alone. Or you can do what the other guy said and risk bursting your expansion tank.
Perfect, my 3 stories should be fine then. Thanks.
I must have asked this before but if I got an answer, I don't remember. The subject is end of season steps for a steam boiler. Specifically, do I drain the tank one last time the same way I do during the winter - get the gunk out and fill to normal winter level - or do I do something more (or less)? Like many things involving steam systems, seemingly knowledgeable people on line have conflicting opinions.
Jamie: The white areas in your second photo are mineral deposits. Hard water causes mineral build up in the flow restrictor which causes the water to flow from the unrestricted parts of the restrictor, or out the sides if the flow restrictor is fully clogged. You can either clean the flow restrictor to remove the particles, which should flake off easily or install a new flow restrictor.
Another consideration is that it might be the flashing not the vent that is leaking